Black Lives Matter

Like many I have been moved to tears of sadness and frustration by the tragic and untimely deaths of George Floyd, Breonna Taylor and Ahmaud Arbery in the US. I have signed petitions for changes to the curriculum, donated to organisations supporting social justice and am working my way through the lists of films, books and podcasts being shared as a way to better educate myself as an anti-racist ally.

As part of this reflection, it's impossible for me to ignore the fact that fashion has a race problem: the historic lack of diversity behind the scenes at every level has led to the release of racially insensitive products, cultural appropriation, profiling of minority customers in stores and a lack of representation on catwalks, magazine covers and ad campaigns.

Improving the latter has been a focus for many brands and media companies in the past few years, but promoting an image of diversity without fostering the same internally is not a good look. Supporting Black designers is just one way to make retailers take notice and change their ways, permanently, while opening yourself to some of the most exciting and paradigm-shifting fashion available. More than simply buying from these creatives, following and engaging with them on Instagram too will no doubt prove instructive and inspirational.

But change is afoot. Many fashion brands and retailers have been galvanised in response to the Black Lives Matter movement, taking steps to make their own businesses and the wider industry more inclusive. British jewellery brand Astrid & Miyu is launching two separate mentorship programmes: one for 10 students and one for six young entrepreneurs which comes with a £3,000 grant towards which Astrid & Miyu founder Corinne Nam has pledged three months of her own salary. Applications close on 30 June.

Finally, I wanted to share a small selection of books new and old which celebrate the work of Black creatives: Top row, left to right: Muse: Mickalene Thomas Photographs; Kwame Brathwaite: Black is Beautiful; The New Black Vanguard: Photography Between Art and Fashion. Bottom row, left to right: Supreme Models: Iconic Black Women Who Revolutionized Fashion; I Can Make You Feel Good: Tyler Mitchell

Supporting sustainability

The conversation about sustainability in fashion was building serious momentum pre-pandemic, so it's heartening to know that it remains on the agenda as many brands begin to bounce back after this difficult trading period.

Online fashion retailer Farfetch has launched a Fashion Footprint tool, including a sustainability calculator that explains the impact of the materials used in an item and the environmental benefits of purchasing pre-owned fashion.

Allbirds – the New Zealand footwear brand with a focus on natural materials and sustainable practices – has launched an underwear collection. Made from the brand's proprietary blend of responsibly sourced eucalyptus tree fibres and merino wool, the pieces prioritise comfort and softness.

Jewellery brand Pandora has committed to stop buying newly mined silver and gold for its jewellery by switching to recycled sources by 2025. Currently 71% of the silver and gold used by Pandora is from recycled sources, by increasing this commitment it will significantly cut carbon emissions and water usage.

Gucci has launched an Off The Grid capsule collection using recycled, organic, bio-based and sustainably sourced materials. With a focus on bags and accessories plus a few pieces of clothing, the brightly coloured, genderless collection makes much of the brand's double G logo.

JW Anderson x Yoox

On 20 June, fashion retailer Yoox celebrated 20 years since its first click. To mark such an auspicious occasion, it has collaborated with iconoclastic London-based designer JW Anderson on a capsule collection of pieces that are designed to transcend gender.

Forget simple unisex designs, fashion provocateur Anderson does things differently after all, and has proposed a collection including a tie-neck blouse, pleated skirt and belted trenchcoat for all. The chain-lock bag, felt mules and patchwork shirt dress are particular favourites.

Nineties redux

The 90s were a particularly formative time for me, especially when it came to experimenting with style. As somebody who hit their teenage years in that decade I am ever thankful that social media didn't exist then and my sartorial escapades do not live on in perpetuity online. I think it's this sense of impermanence that helps make the 90s a particularly attractive place to revisit, especially when it comes to fashion.

I took a mini trip down memory lane recently, rounding up the 90s looks that are so right for now, and inadvertently making my watch-list into a serious nostalgia fest courtesy of some of the best teen movies ever made.

Sales scrolling

I've written before about the impact of discounting for fashion retailers this summer. While nobody would have chosen the circumstances, it doesn't change the fact that there are some real bargains to be had right now.

Luxury retailer Net-a-Porter launched its sale earlier this month and there are thousands of pieces with discounts of up to 50%. Such choice can be overwhelming, even if you have a mental list of pieces you need and designers you love.

I curated a wish-list from some of the hottest designers of the past few years, with a focus on pieces that you will want to wear now and for years to come. From elevated basics to the prettiest party dresses, I hope that you find the edit inspiring.

Costume dramas

As I type this the thermometer is reading 30° and the heat from my laptop is pushing me close to meltdown. While I'm thankful I don't have to contend with the overheated carriages that usually mark a summer of commuting in London, I'm also missing the refrigerated bliss of an air-conditioned office.

Instead I'm making the most of summer in my sun-trap garden with splashing in a paddling pool with my son and as much as ice cream as my freezer will accommodate. I'm also dreaming about a dip in wild waters and heading to the beach for a great British adventure. All of which calls, I think, for a new swimming costume: one which makes me feel supported yet stylish and ready to handle any impromptu moments in the sun.

PS...

I've travelled the globe in order to attend fashion shows, and truly there is little to replicate the emotional jolt of experiencing a fashion moment first hand, be it a designer debut, a swansong collection, or simply the exploration of a truly new idea.

But social distancing and concerns over sustainability look set to alter forever the current system that simply means too many brands are showing too many collections in too many locations. Digital fashion showcases are on the rise, and as a nascent form there's still some exploration as to quite what they should look like. Chanel has one idea, London Fashion Week designers have multiple others.

While viewing in real time will allow you to be part of a shared moment, one of the beauties of the digital show is that it lives on, meaning you can experience it again and again. Considering the work, time, and money that go into creating collections this can only be a very good thing. You can catch up with all of the happenings from the inaugural digital London Fashion Week here.

Until next month, stay safe,

Rebecca Gonsalves

Culture Whisper

Fashion Director