Lokhandwala restaurant review ★★★★★

Situated north of the big-ticket names on Charlotte Street, Lokhandwala is a cosily designed and stylish restaurant that offers both intimacy and comfort. The staff are switched-on and highly adept at recommending dishes – which, given the tapas-style menu, is extremely welcome – and it’s nice not to be in the thick of what has turned into a congested area.

Celery Prawns

Small plate dining is so much part of the London scene right now that criticising it feels as redundant as saying that a £20 main course in W1 is expensive. Everything that Lokhandwala does is very good. Yet one can't help but feel that it’s extremely difficult to have a normal evening or lunchtime meal here. This is partly because the menu does nothing to differentiate between starters and main courses; essentially one has the same thing, twice over, with sides.

While the quality of the food can be extremely high, it is inconsistent. We found the Yorkshire pudding with keema lamb to be rather middling and the ‘idli fries’ were unexceptional; however, the celery prawns were utterly delicious and the lamb chops were delectable. Desserts aren’t on the menu.

The Herbalist Cocktail

The cocktail menu makes a big deal out of the backstory of ‘the ruins of Lady Charlotte’. Most will be more interested in the excellent Star of India – a gin and tonic with lots of chutzpah – though there are plenty of other delicious options. The £11 price might strike some as optimistic.

In all honesty, we probably would not return unless a few changes are made. A friendly welcome and decent food don't justify the cost of an experience that can’t compare to the best places in town at the moment.