Ember Yard, Soho

Spanish and Italian open wood-fired cooking is the speciality of this lively Soho outpost from Salt Yard Group. At Ember Yard's heart is a bespoke Basque grill fuelled by single species charcoal and wood from Kent; most diners prefer to perch on stools at high counters where they can see the spectacle of the fiery open kitchen. The ibérico presa with whipped jamón butter is a must and the chargrilled prawns with shaved lardo, datterini tomato, chilli, lemon and parsley are a delight. When in season, calçots are served with smoked almonds and romesco sauce.

Even the cocktails are smoked – the negroni is kept cool with smoked ice and garnished with grilled orange, and is so compelling that one is never enough. A small caveat: diners emerge with the fiery aroma deeply imbued in their clothes and hair. Some consider this sexy; others may resent a trip to the dry cleaner.