Where to eat in Mayfair

Gymkhana

Michelin-starred Indian restaurant Gymkhana, part of the Sethi siblings' growing empire, closed in 2019 because of a fire, leaving many Londoners stumped as to where to go for a world-class curry in the city. Now, the restaurant has reopened its doors and it’s as hot as ever, boasting several new dishes (Keralan Toddy Shaapu Wild Tiger Prawns and Game Bird Baida Roti served with Girolle Pickle among them) plus updated decor. For a curry that’s a cut above, yet several cuts below the typical price point of Michelin dining, visit at lunchtime and take advantage of the lunch menu – £27.50-£45pp depending on how many courses you have.

Hide

Hide was one of the most hotly anticipated openings of 2018. Ollie Dabbous threw everything into it, closing his first restaurant (named Dabbous, after himself) in 2017 to focus on the 180-cover, all-day dining restaurant in Mayfair. It didn’t take long for the gamble to pay off. Hide earned its first Michelin star just six months after opening. The restaurant suits its glossy surroundings, too: an elegant, sculptural oak staircase forms the centrepiece, taking guests from Above (a light-filled dining room with views over Green Park), to Ground (the ‘hearth’ of the restaurant), to Below (a basement bar where diners can enjoy classic cocktails or chance it on a contemporary creation).

Service is impeccably slick, and in addition to its starry tasting menu, Dabbous has partnered with Hedonism Wines to provide the wine, of which there are 4,000 (no we haven’t added one too many zeros) to choose from – with the help of a knowledgeable sommelier, of course.

Ella Canta

Glamorous culinary superstar Martha Ortiz can be credited for bringing authentic Mexican cuisine to a new level in London, with the 2017 opening of her phenomenal restaurant Ella Canta. The name translates as ‘she sings’, while the menu is divided into ‘drama’, ‘main act’ and ‘final curtain’, with dishes from each appearing as an edible work of magical realism. Whatever you eat – and we heartily recommend the vampire ceviche (sea bass turned dramatically deeply pink with a mango and sangrita sorbet with sour-sweet nuances of chilli and coriander) – do order the Mayahuel margarita, a Barbie-pink blend infused with grapefruit shrub. Exquisite, too, are the churros with chocolate and caramel sauces.

Kitty Fisher’s

A rare example of a restaurant where the dishes and dining space rival one another in likeability, Kitty Fisher’s oozes with atmosphere and romantic charm. Whether you opt to duck into a velvet booth in the basement dining room or take a seat at the street-level wine bar, you’ll sense the magic in the air. The focus is on modern British fare with a Spanish twist. Vegetarians be warned, the menu here is heavy on the meat, but if you’re a flexitarian, the likes of Iberico presa with carrot, almonds and plum, or the Duck with artichoke and onions, could be enough to lure you back to carnivorous ways.

Pollen Street Social

Superstar chef Jason Atherton has gone on to open several more establishments under the ‘Social’ umbrella brand since launching his first solo restaurant, Pollen Street Social, in 2011. Yet this flagship site for Atherton’s culinary empire continues to reign supreme. It gained its Michelin star within six months of opening and shows no sign of losing it any time soon. Expect seasonal British produce which, if you ask nicely, the staff will be more than happy to help you trace back to its origins – from the Orkney scallops to the St Ives lobster.

Murano

Murano is the first and still the best of Angela Hartnett's restaurants. It serves up her light and sophisticated mix of dishes inspired by her Italian 'nonna' from Emilia Romagna and using the best seasonal British produce.

Angela's cooking always sings with flavour and is refreshingly uncomplicated. At lunch, there is a three-course menu for £37, offering: Scottish girolles; porchini tagliatelle or cod brandade with poached egg and crispy ham; braised Cumbrian lamb shoulder, grain risotto, parsley, and carrots; or Cornish pollock with octopus and chorizo ragù; finishing with fig & almond torta or fig-leaf ice cream. It is well worth splashing out on the full menu experience as well and there's a gorgeous, intimate chef's table to be enjoyed.

Umu

Umu, which in Japanese means 'born of nature', is London's first Kyoto-influenced restaurant. Chef Yoshinori Ishii trained at one of Kyoto's most revered restaurants and it shows in dishes of utmost purity and refinement.

As well as being an exceptionally accomplished chef, he is also a skilled fisherman, potter, and calligrapher. Ishii has a rare eye for artful display and flavour, incorporating his expertise not only as a chef but also as a skilled artist into each dish. It is an experience unlike anything else in London and made all the more special by the discreet elegance of the surroundings.

Coya

Mayfair doesn't need to be sedate. It certainly isn't at Coya, and all the better for it. Try Saturday brunch Peruvian-style with limitless cocktails: that's pisco sours, Negroni and tequila, plus a whole ceviche bar and a DJ too. Brunch is £75 a head and served from noon until 3.30pm on Saturdays.

Theo Randall at The Intercontinental

Theo Randall brought the essence of The River Café to Mayfair with his British Italophile food that's joyously vibrant and flavourful.

To celebrate his love of impeccable produce, Theo has collaborated with artist Amber Locke, who makes geometric designs out of natural produce, to offer a menu that expresses his passion for coaxing uncomplicated, sublime flavours out of the best ingredients. Eat the Art dishes include smoked eel with beetroot and fresh horseradish, seabream with Roseval potatoes, fennel, taggiasche olives, capers and parsley, and for dessert, Theo's definitive Amalfi lemon tart.

The Greenhouse

It's the only restaurant set in its own gardens in Mayfair and it is aptly called The Greenhouse. The two-Michelin-starred restaurant built its reputation on impeccable fine dining and a phenomenal wine list, with some stratospheric rare bottles. Go only when you are in the mood to splash plenty of cash or if you are being treated.

What's most endearing about new chef Alex Dilling, who joined from Helene Darroze at The Connaught in 2018, is that almost every dish has several little accompaniments, such as a special bread or an infusion. There is infinite care in every stage of each dish and, of course, the truffle egg just has to be experienced.