The Hour Glass, South Kensington ★★★★★

Everything about the The Hour Glass in South Kensington suggests that it will be fantastic. The team behind it were responsible for lovely Brompton Food Market, it's in a great location with no competition, the chef has worked in Michelin kitchens. The seasonal menu is fantastic, made up of British classics with pizzazz-y touches, like sea bream with cauliflower with burnt leeks and brown shrimp. The decor is laid-back and cool, a mix of period features and chic modern touches.

It should be great, but, at the moment, it's merely good.

Little things that let it down. The space is narrow, and the tables just a touch too small. Our sparkling water was forgotten. The beetroot in our salad was tough, and all the dishes were far too salty - so salty, we really missed that sparkling water.

We're sure these little niggles are just teething problems. The diners next to us were locals on their second visit, and were thrilled with their meal. Watch this space.