After more than two years feeding Tel Aviv-style brunches all day long to the lucky folk of Stoke Newington, the Good Egg crew are now bringing their morning-minded Middle Eastern meets Montreal Jewish cafe culture to Soho with a more ambitious menu.
Joel Braham, Alex Coppard, and Oded Mizrachi – the trio behind the restaurant – are very much in evidence over the opening weeks - the place is buzzing. There are colourful jars of pickled vegetables and preserved lemons stacked on shelves and a huge neon The Good Egg hangs on the wall, funky retro seating and a dining room populated with twenty to thirty somethings talking animatedly and eating a lot! It feels very friendly, warm and already established.
Drinks are inspired by the thriving Tel Aviv cocktail scene and highly creative: an Old-fashioned mixed with bone marrow and Bloody Mary with piquant pastrami spicing, lemon and pickled cucumber are deeply savoury and well partnered with house made crackers, chopped herring, egg and apple for a properly nostalgic Jewish snack to start dinner.
To start, be sure to order labneh with preserved lemon and smoked paprika, herby whipped feta and aubergine with tahini, smoked paprika and pine nuts, Plus order masses of the pita, it is so so good and fluffy. It's hard not to get carried away as everything reads so appealingly and delivers with piquant flavour, it is comfort food with an exotic edge and a really companionable way to dine.
Mains take their lead from Israeli mangals or grills with favourite spicy, crunchy za'tar fried chicken thighs as tasty as ever, the sweet flesh of impressive sized charred mackerel is brilliantly partnered with pickled fennel and shawarma of short rib of beef is a spectacularly sized and spiced dish with the meat literally falling from the fork from long, slow cooking. We tried too tiny crisp bites of potato with charred peppers and a good dose of chilli, herbs and lemon besides a beautiful persimmon, radish and pomegranate salad. Part of the appeal of The Good Egg is the glorious colours of all the dishes.
Vegetarians have plenty to choose from including baharat roasted pumpkin and muhammara,(roasted peppers, pomegranate molasses, walnuts, chill and more) flaked almonds and paprika.
Though we were really replete the charming pastry chef who came over from the pass to talk us through desserts even though the kitchen was about to close persuaded us to try the chocolate bark with cranberries and nuts and a less successful rather too bland and creamy fig ripple ice-cream. It feels like the kind of place to linger and we were surprised to find it close to midnight when we left after evocatively perfumed espresso martini with cardamom syrup.
We're keen to return for breakfast - that babka calls to us (and is available to takeout too) besides knaiffe croissant with pistachio, rose and persimmon jam plus French toast with cured pumpkin and pear brittle. We love too the idea of a 'Jerusalem' breakfast of lots of little mezze dishes including crisp fried eggs, halloumi and green whipped feta. £12.00 for a taster of everything per head. Plus for more substantial (every day brunch) there's Iraqi aubergine pita with tahini, mango amba, pickles and zhoug and brisket has with caramelised onions, fries, Russian dressing and pickles topped with a fried egg.
Our only quibble with The Good Egg, which we will definitely be returning too, is the service. Early days perhaps, yet although it started charmingly we got served by so many different rather wild eyed looking staff that it became somewhat erratic and confused. We suspect they're still adapting to such a substantially larger space.
It's been an incredible ride for The Good Egg and we think they will be fully embraced in Soho. Mazeltov!
Open every day.
Price: £60.00+ for two including drinks
|What||The Good Egg, Soho review|
|Where||The Good Egg, Soho, Ground Floor, Kingly Court , London, W1B 5PW | MAP|
|Nearest tube||Piccadilly Circus (underground)|
01 Dec 17 – 07 Dec 18, Mon-Tours 8am-11pm, Fri 8am-midnight, Sat 9am-midnight, Sun 9am-11pm