Quo Vadis Restaurant, Soho London

Is every notable Soho restaurant a former brothel? Certainly a good many are, including the wonderfully soignee Quo Vadis. What's more, it is where Karl Marx once lived and started to write Das Kapital.

It has just been given an elegant makeover for its 90th year and a more intimate dining room to make space for Barrafina to share the historic site dating back to 1926. Of course, the exquisite stained glass windows remain alongside a newly commissioned John Broadley (responsible for their hand-drawn menus too) Soho tapestry of eminent and notorious habitués.

Besides drawing on the best of regional British ingredients, Lee is mightily in love with Elizabeth David and frequently features classics from her repertoire, especially her chocolate cake. The sour-dough smoked eel sandwich is a legend in its own lunchtime and crab soup with rouille is a stalwart too. Visit now for Grouse & co with game chips and sherry croutons.

Tables are impeccable with the finest pressed linen and flowers and the service makes everyone feel like a film star. Their Negroni and Old-Fashioned, in fact, every cocktail is expertly mixed. An invitation to dine here should never be refused.

www.quovadissoho.com

Booking: Reservations essential.

Price: £140+ per head for 3 courses with a cocktail and wine