The answer is ‘mostly’. It’s a pain to find – located in the arches, you’ve got to have your wits, rather than Google maps, about you – and the design is somewhat more modern and modish than the old-school trattoria feel of the Brompton Road outpost, which is something of a pity. Conceived on a grand scale – there’s an on-site butcher, amongst other innovations – it nonetheless felt a bit quiet on a Wednesday evening shortly after opening, but this will change when word gets around.
The food is, as with its sister branch, exemplary. Beef tartare with Stilton was a fine appetite-whetter, not least with the addition of crescia, a delightful Italian cheese bread. The steak is, of course, superb; the uncooked meat is brought over to your table initially to excite your approval, and then proudly returned in tender form, served simply with rosemary and salt, and chips and broccoli on the side. Desserts may or may not be necessary, but the tiramisu is very good indeed. As you’d expect from somewhere of this ilk, the Italian wine list is a fine and varied thing, and the Sangiovese red that accompanied our steak was a big, gutsy number that more than stood up to its carnivorous counterpart.
So, early days yet. It’s not quite up to the giddy heights of its elder sibling, but when it’s fuller and buzzier then this promises to be one of the most notable SE1 additions of the year. And we can’t wait to return for another visit soon.
|What||Macellaio restaurant review, Southwark|
|Where||Macellaio Southwark, Arch 24, 229 Union Street, Southwark, SE1 0LR | MAP|
|Nearest tube||Southwark (underground)|
01 Oct 16 – 01 Oct 19, Monday - Friday: 12–3pm, 6–11pm; Saturday & Sunday: 12 - 11pm
|Website||Click here to book via Macellaio|