What turned heads at London Fashion Week 2023

Burberry: cosy nostalgia and desire for change

Daniel Lee, who worked wonders as Bottega Veneta’s creative director, was appointed at Burberry to make the heritage brand ‘pop’ again. His eagerly anticipated show was held in south London’s Kennington Park in a softly lit venue cushioned by tartan blankets and with a scent of campfire filling the air.

Lee confided that he wants to ‘celebrate what’s great about this country, which is that the streets are full of people from all walks of life. There is great music here, great theatre, and great art. I want to shine a light on those things and show the positive side of Britain in the world.’

Symbols of Britishness were many, from countryside cosiness, wide khaki trenchcoats, wacky mallard prints, aggrandised rose prints, faux fur collars and duck feathers. References to British anti-establishment heritage were aplenty, with a particular nod to Vivienne Westwood’s punk years, all wrapped in bold yellow and deep purple shades.

The collection felt torn between nostalgic references and its desire for change but the message was clear and left us longing for more.

JW Anderson calls for radical rebelliousness

British counter-culture nostalgia was also present at JW Anderson, Jonathan Anderson’s own line, but in a radically rebellious way. British fashion needs 'to step up and say something' at a moment when the country is 'in a paralysis,' Jonathan Anderson said. ‘We can’t hide behind history and heritage. I believe in a creative future for this country, but it is going to require a lot of heavy lifting.’

His collection showcased an intellectual punk-spirited collaboration with Scottish choreographer Michael Clarke, the ‘David Bowie of dance’ — you may have seen his Cosmic Dancer’s retrospective at the Barbican.

Featured were giant plaster penises, graphic vinyl T-shirts and a minidress inspired by a Tesco bag.

‘Clarke was part of the reason I got into fashion,' said Anderson. 'He symbolised London as a melting pot of self-expression, that was not just about dance but also about gender, about clubbing, about a rebellion against the establishment. His energy was alien to the prevailing culture of the time, and it represented the possibility of a different kind of future.’

Hay fever at Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha’s collection is one of the highlights of the London calendar. Her designs are known for their intricate detailing, use of delicate fabrics, and exploration of femininity.

‘I came from Ireland to study at Central Saint Martins a decade ago because it was a place where people from all over the world come together and say what they want to say. I still believe in that idea of London, and London is still where I can put on the best show,’ she reminded us ahead of her show.

This season, she took inspiration from the historic Irish tradition of Lughnasadh, a Gaelic harvest festival, wanting her collection to feel ‘very grounded and close to the earth”. Models wore skirt suits and puffy tulle dresses loaded with layers of loose raffia and harboured delicate ribbon bows on their cheekbones. We were enthralled.

Molly Goddard's antidote to madness

Molly Goddard’s collection was more of a reflection on the unsettling world we live in right now. Goddard’s deliberately low-key show took part in her east London studio. Pared-back tulle dresses and chunky jumpers made for a very wearable and long-lasting collection.

'I think that wanting to strip everything back and show in this way is actually a reaction, possibly, to what is going on at the moment. I feel like things have gone a bit mad – there is no focus on the clothes. I want this to be an antidote to that. For me, the focus has always been on the clothes – I'm not really interested in the show around it all.'