Zuma, Knightsbridge

Chef Rainer Becker was the very first to bring the idea of izakaya dining to London, opening Zuma in 2002: it was, and still is, swish, glitzy and wildly popular. The sophisticated Knightsbridge restaurant includes a main dining area, a sushi counter and a robata grill – behind which, the chefs seem to be thoroughly enjoying themselves and always seem happy to offer culinary explanations. There's also a kotatsu (a low wooden table), a semi-private Tosho table that can accommodate groups of up to ten guests, and a dazzling sake bar.

Highlights include seared salmon with lime, shiso and soy and a light dish of grilled courgette with tarragon miso sauce. Overall, the sashimi, sushi and rolls balance traditional and wacky fusion: Dynamite Spider (soft shell crab and chilli mayo), and Wagyu Gunkan (daikon wrapped beef tartare rolls with black truffle) sit alongside impeccable toro and sea urchin. Much of the wow factor is down to high-class ingredients that haven’t been messed around with too much. Own-made silken tofu, presented in a cedar sake cup, is rich, creamy and light. Spicy miso is indulgently enhanced with beautifully sweet lobster, and lemon sole with a tangy, ponzu sauce is wittily presented in a curved bowl made from the skeleton of the fish. There is also a sake sommelier on hand to guide diners through a list of more than 40 choices.