An American in London: Whistler and the Thames, Dulwich Picture Gallery

James Whistler was one of London’s 19th century mavericks. He was notorious for his verbal sparring with Oscar Wilde and for suing critic John Ruskin over a bad review. And of course, he painted a rather bleak picture of his mother.

But none of this detracts from the innovation of Whistler’s enormous artistic legacy, which is on display at the Dulwich Picture Gallery from 16 October. This unique selection of paintings, etchings and drawings is the first major exhibition devoted to Whistler’s controversial time in London town. 

Arriving from the US in 1853, Whistler brought with him a blast of the artistic avant-garde. His first works were etchings of life on the River Thames. These impressions bustle with workers and barges, and colourful characters in etchings like The Lime Burne r (1859). The more sedater banks of today are unrecognizable: these images evoke Victorian London with Dickensian accuracy.

After his 1867 move to Chelsea, Whistler’s dreamier river-scapes began to depict London as a city of foggy mystery. Make a note to find Brown and Silver: Old Battersea Bridge(1859-1863), Battersea Reach from Lindsey House (c. 1864) and the show’s centrepiece Nocturne: Blue and Gold- Old Battersea Bridge (1872/1873). Look for the influences of photography and Japanese art and you’ll start to see why some of the stuffier Victorians were so affronted.

Whistler’s work put London on the artistic map. He may have died penniless, though victorious, after the Ruskin trial but this exhibition proves that the irascible artist was one of our city’s great chroniclers.

Ticket price: £11, Conc. £6