The best new comfort-food menus London has to offer
For the past half a decade or so, London menus have largely championed one of two things: minimalism or perfectionism. The former was built on a farm-to-fork, less-is-more principle that saw restaurants boast about how few ingredients went into each dish served. The latter was all about intricately designed small plates that looked Insta-perfect and could be devoured in all of three bites. Skye Gyngell’s Spring and Douglas McMaster’s Silo are examples of the former; the Barbary and its siblings, most JKS restaurants and every chic pasta restaurant you can think of (Padella, Bancone, Pophams etc) fall in line with the latter.
Then the pandemic happened, and two years of lockdowns and restrictions have reignited our hunger for decadence and comfort in equal measure. We want to quaff champagne until the early hours, or tuck into an edible manifestation of our joy at finally sitting together around a table again.
Our wishes have been heard by London's gastronomic scene. A wave of trendy new restaurants have opened up, offering innovative takes on comfort-food classics. So move over small plates, 2022 is all about celebrating big portions.
Here’s where to tuck in…