The welcome: Ceviche
founder Morales is closely associated with high end restaurants, which makes
this casual and relaxed spot such a pleasure. A ‘picanteria’ which specialises
in food from the Andes, it serves breakfast, lunch and dinner in a Soho
townhouse, and offers gluten-free dishes that don’t stint on taste or quality.
The room: You are greeted with
a casual bar area on the ground floor, and a more grown-up restaurant space
lurks on the first floor. If you’re only visiting for a quick snack and a
drink, you’ll be fine downstairs, but if you’re planning on making an evening
of it, you’ll want to make a reservation in the comfortable and cosy space
The food: If
you’ve been to any of Morales’ other establishments, you’ll have an idea of
what to expect, but there are several unusual twists and innovations here. One
thing that has remained intact, thankfully, are the pisco sours, which are
every bit as delicious as before. While you sip on one, sample one of the small
appetisers, of which the avocado fritters and the pork croquetas are probably
After that, you’re encouraged to pick a variety of hot and
raw dishes, which range from the sublime (maca lamb loin, king prawns with
quail egg) to the more surprising and confusing; the lamb sweetbreads will
delight carnivores but bemuse those of less hearty dispositions, and a ceviche
of sea bass and avocado is tart to the point of being almost difficult to eat.
Nonetheless, the cooking and preparation are of an extremely high standard in
this impressive place. And the wine is sublime – a bottle of Uruguayan Tannat
is smooth and disturbingly easy to drink.
Would we go again? Absolutely,
whether for a full meal or a quick pisco sour and snack.
|What||Casita Andina, Soho|
|Nearest tube||Piccadilly Circus (underground)|
28 Jul 16 – 30 Apr 18, 12:00 AM
|Website||Click here for more information|