There’s still something of Masterchef star Wareing’s trademark
flash about the place though. Arriving at the venue diners are greeted by an
intriguing frenzy of mirrors, black surfaces and gold-details, à la Studio 54.
The menu, though, is fuss-free and hedonistic: think foie
gras parfait, sliders, burgers, chops
Two Down the Apples and Pears cocktails were welcome and
sweet. Service, though, was slightly leisurely, and we were more than peckish
when our starters arrived. The grilled prawns with sweet-corn, cornbread and
prawn butter was delicious; the meat was plump and sweet and the cornbread wonderful; a wonderful twist on more traditional prawn starters. The beetroot
salad with spelt and walnuts, though, didn’t really hold its own; it was bland
and the ingredients didn’t gel.
For mains, we chose roasted monkfish, which was to die for - meaty and
perfectly cooked and wonderfully rich butternut Squash and Sage dumplings. The
portions were slightly diminutive, but the charming waiter selected perfect, accompanying sides of roast sweet potato and crunchy greens. For dessert, we'd suggest the clementine and white chocolate parfait with clementine curd if you're feeling adventurous, or a "virtuous" brownie with coconut yoghurt for a clean twist on an old favourite.
The food could have been prompter, and the black and gold
colour scheme is a touch daring, but for the most part dining at Tredwell’s is
a very pleasant experience.
|What||Review: Tredwell's Restaurant|
|Where||Tredwells, 4a Upper St Martin's Ln, London, WC2H 9NY | MAP|
|Nearest tube||Leicester Square (underground)|
01 Sep 14 – 31 Jul 20, Monday to Wednesday: 12pm – 3pm and 5pm – 10pm. Thursday & Friday: 12pm – 11pm. Saturday: 9.30am – 11pm. Sunday: 9:30am – 4pm.
|Price||£40 per head average|