New season highlights at MATCHESFASHION
There's a reason RJ Cutler's look behind the scenes at American Vogue is called The September Issue: the month kicking off the autumn/winter fashion season is of paramount importance. Indeed, one of the key pieces of wisdom gleaned from the documentary is that 'September is the January of fashion.'
It's a time when new collections are released, and retailers showcase the brands they're excited to have discovered too.
As ever, the buying team behind MATCHESFASHION is responsible for an impeccable edit of the new season trends. But it's the fresh designers they've brought on for autumn/winter 2020 that we're most excited to discover right now.
From fashion to footwear to fine jewellery, read on for the Culture Whisper guide to the designers making their MATCHESFASHION debut this season
It's all about the detail when it comes to the traditional white shirt and, in the skilled hands of former celebrity stylist Lauren Grant, that detail manifests as a tongue-in-cheek spin on buttons which Grant has replaced with conversation-sparking embellishments such as handmade false nails, ring-pulls and fake pills.
For her London-based label, S.A.R.K, Grant has been inspired by surrealist fashion photographer Guy Bourdin, the Young British Artists scene of the 90s, Marlene Dietrich and the glamorous talons of her own mother.
S.A.R.K shirts are made in England from luxuriously weighty silk with a relaxed fit and Cuban collar perfect for dressing up denim or wearing with relaxed tailoring.
Footwear this season has some serious stomp, so it's prime time to get to know Nodaleto, a brand that has picked up cult status since it debuted at Paris Fashion Week last year.
The label takes its name, albeit in anagrammatic form, from the surname of its founder, designer Julia Toledano, who as daughter of Sidney Toledano chairman and CEO of LVMH has an insight into the world of luxury fashion that's hard to beat.
Toledano takes inspiration from 70s architecture, clean Modernist lines and rigorous minimalism, with sculptural block heels fast becoming a design signature.
If the new season had an overriding message it would be 'let the fringe fly.' Texture was everything on the catwalks, and fringing provides an elegant and exuberant way to achieve it.
That's particularly true of Taller Marmo's approach which is dynamic and elegant, vibrant with saturated colour or sleek in black or white. The Milan-based label is an expression of craftsmanship and luxury and it's little wonder designers Riccardo Audisio and Yago Goicoechea were past finalists for the International Woolmark Prize.
The new collection features decadent dresses and kaftans inspired by style icons such as Sophia Loren and Diana Vreeland – women who weren't afraid to let their clothes do the talking.
Jewellery is in Yvonne Léon's blood: the youngest daughter in a family of jewellers, she grew up surrounded by dazzling objects. But bathed in the old world as she may be, Léon brings a contemporary playfulness to some of the most precious elements.
Léon cites rifling through the flea markets of France as a source of inspiration, as well as the jewellery boxes discovered in her grandmother's attic, and there is a surreal kitschiness to her collections: her crustacean earrings dotted with delicate pavé diamonds are particularly charming.
But there's undeniable elegance here too, in pretty ropes of pearls and a chainmail-inspired statement earpiece, all handmade in Léon's Paris workshop.
Inspired not by the Wim Wenders arthouse film of the same name but by the idea of a sophisticated take on Western style, Paris Texas has fast been making strides in the fashion industry.
Annamaria and Margherita Brivio, the sisters behind the label, were inspired by the colourful pumps that were a signature of their stylish Italian grandmother, as well as a desire to create comfortable yet directional shoes. Whether slouchy or sleek, spindle-heeled or blocky, the brand's boots are a hit with the style set.
As newcomers go, Suzanne Kalan has more experience than most: she founded her fine jewellery brand in the late 80s following the birth of her daughter. Now all grown up, that daughter, Patile Kalandijan, has become her mother's partner and collaborator, with the duo working together to industry acclaim and a cult following.
Delicate yet not dainty, the made-in-LA pieces have a strong focus on striking colour combinations, dynamic settings and imaginative cuts with vibrant semi-precious baguette-cut stones playfully interspersed with diamonds.
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